5 Composting Techniques That Transform Food Waste Into Garden Gold

There are multiple effective methods to transform organic waste into nutrient-rich compost. This process involves breaking down materials such as kitchen scraps and yard debris using microorganisms like bacteria and fungi. The right combination of green (nitrogen-rich) and brown (carbon-rich) ingredients, along with moisture and oxygen, helps facilitate this decomposition.

Compost improves soil health by enhancing its structure, moisture retention, and nutrient levels, while also helping to suppress diseases and pests. Whether you're composting in your backyard or as part of a community initiative, there are several techniques to choose from. Below, we explore various methods recommended by experts in the field.

Meet Our Experts

Charles Dowding, an author and no-dig gardener, has been using compost to grow vegetables for years. Eric Nieusma, co-owner of Maine Hill Farm, is a regenerative and organic grower who shares his insights on composting.

Hot Composting

Hot composting is a fast method that generates heat to accelerate decomposition. According to Charles Dowding, this technique requires careful management of the pile, maintaining the proper balance of brown and green materials, and ensuring adequate moisture and aeration.

Dowding recommends a 3:1 ratio of green to brown materials. "Materials such as coffee grounds are excellent for encouraging heat," he says. This mix raises temperatures, enabling the compost to mature within six to eight months. The process generates temperatures between 110 and 160 degrees Fahrenheit as billions of bacteria break down the green materials.

However, hot composting requires regular management, with frequent turning every two to four days to mix the materials and aerate the pile. You may not want to hot compost in the winter, as more green material is available from mid-spring to early fall.

Tips

If you have limited space for composting, you can create a simple structure using wire mesh to enclose the pile. Cut a piece of wire mesh to be about 4 feet high and 10 to 12 feet long, then form it into a cylinder and secure the ends with clips or wire ties. Place the bin on level ground in your chosen location, and start adding your compost materials.

Cold Composting

Cold composting is a low-maintenance, beginner-friendly method where organic materials are added to a bin or pile over time without turning. Dowding notes that cold composting is a more common method as it allows the caretaker to be hands-off.

Materials such as kitchen scraps and fallen leaves are added in small amounts at a time, and temperatures do not increase as much as they do in hot composting. This slower process takes six months to one year to produce finished compost. "This decomposition is more fungal than bacterial, and it is a very healthy process, but it takes longer than hot bacterial decomposition," Dowding says.

A 3:1 ratio of brown to green materials by volume is a good starting point, but exact measurements are less crucial than in hot composting because cold composting is a more relaxed process. A simple technique is to pile about 3 parts of brown material, then add a layer of green material on top.

Trench Composting

Trench composting involves burying organic waste in the soil to decompose and enrich it over time. "Dig a trench 6 to 12 inches deep, and the length of your garden bed. Fill it with kitchen scraps and yard waste, then backfill the soil," says Eric Nieusma, co-owner of Maine Hill Farm.

Aim for a ratio of 1 part green to 2 parts brown, or a simple 50/50 mix. Allow the waste to decompose for about six months before planting. "No turning or monitoring is needed because the soil acts as a compost bin," Nieusma notes.

This process enriches the soil, attracts worms, and improves soil structure. He recommends marking the spot with stakes and suggests starting this project in the fall, because it can overwinter and be ready by spring planting.

Leaf Mold

Leaf mold is a type of compost made exclusively from decomposing leaves. "Leaf mold is all about fungal breakdown, since there is almost no green matter for bacteria to feed on," says Dowding. It is a highly nutritious soil amendment that benefits both soil and plant health. You can use the decomposed leaves at any stage, even after six months, as mulch for plants. However, if you wait 18 to 24 months, the result will be a finer compost.

There are a few efficient ways to make leaf mold—in a bin or pile, or in a bag. Keep in mind that this process does require some effort, including gathering the leaves, shredding them, and maintaining moisture.

In a Bin or Pile

To create leaf mold in a bin or pile, gather fallen leaves and shred them if possible. Shredding speeds up the decomposition. Add the leaves to a bin or a pile located in a shady spot in your yard. Dampen the entire pile using a garden hose, as this moisture will encourage decomposition. Check the leaf pile periodically and moisten it again if it seems dry. Cover the bin with a plastic tarp to lock in moisture and keep the leaves consistently moist.

In a Bag

If you don’t have a bin, you can use a large plastic bag. When storing leaves in a bag, fill the bag three-quarters full and moisten the leaves with a garden hose. Tie the top of the bag securely. Then, puncture holes in the bottom and sides of the bag to allow for airflow. Check the bag monthly and add more water if the leaves appear dry.

Vermicompost

Vermicomposting is the practice of utilizing worms to consume kitchen scraps, which they transform into worm castings you can add to your garden. "This nutrient-rich compost can be used for making garden tea or as a soil conditioner, making it one of the most valuable forms of compost due to its incredible fertility," says Nieusma. Castings are also perfect for seedlings or established plants, as the microbes in the castings help plants' immune systems.

To get started with worm composting, you'll need a worm bin, some red wiggler worms, and a bag of compost. Once your bin is set up, you can add vegetable scraps and cardboard for the worms to eat. There's no strict ratio of brown to green materials; the worms will thrive with either. However, adding cardboard on top helps retain moisture. Keep in mind that there is a slight learning curve regarding what worms can eat, and in cooler climates, you'll need a year-round space, like a basement, to keep the worms happy.

Brown and Green Material

In composting, understanding the role of green and brown material is essential. Greens are high in nitrogen, while browns are rich in carbon.

Greens supply the nitrogen that fuels the microorganisms that break down organic matter. In contrast, browns provide the carbon needed for energy and help add structure to the pile, preventing compaction and promoting aeration.

It's important to avoid adding dairy, meat, bones, or fats to your compost pile.

Brown Material: